Sandwich Sojourn Continues… The Mexican torta

Though Mexico’s culinary heritage is far from underappreciated, few people associate the sandwich with south of the border cuisine. In fact, more than burritos or fajitas (which are, in many ways, Gringo fare) tacos and sandwiches – or tortas – are what you are more likely to find at food stands and carts, especially in northern Mexico.

The distinctiveness of the torta begins with the bread. The bolillio or birotes is said to be a descendent of the baguette, though it is considerably more rotund than its French ancestor. It evolved, it would seem, to be an ideal conveyor of fixins, and herein lies the essence of the torta’s greatness, a kind of holy trinity of avocados, refried beans, and jalapenos. When combined with any of the numerous fillings: (a short list includes sautéed chicken, beef milanesa (itself a variation of Milanese steak), chorizo, familiar taco meats like pork al Pastor or carne asada (marinated steak), or simply white cheese the results are godly. With a base of refried beans, avocados, and jalapenos, it seems like you could put anything in a sandwich and would taste great, which probably explains the tortas popularity: just about anywhere one finds a large Mexican population one can find tortas at a taqueria. Tortas also fit the basic requirement one should expect from all sandwiches: as the classic on the go food it is cheap, mobile, and filling, though its a bit aromatic for eating in crowded places (my wife and I were once nearly chased out of a movie theater for the smell after we snuck in a couple of tortas).

As with all sandwiches, the idea of suggesting a specific destination goes against the essence of what defines the food in the first place: they are supposed to be ubiquitous, but never banal, east to get, but still worth craving. But, two tried and true NYC spots are:

Taqueria y Fonda la Mexicana: 968 Amsterdam Ave., b/w 107 and 108^th, Manhattan

Nuevo Mexico: 489 Fifth Avenue, b/w 11^th and 12^th, Brooklyn