Paris #2: Sandwich Grec Blues

Fast food is a kind of monster - a hunger monster - that preys upon those short of time and money. Unfortunately, I fall into this category of quarry as of late, but thankfully there is an option other than MacDo's, Quick, and KFC that is fairly easy to find around Paris and thankfully, not extremely harmful to one's blood pressure, waistline, or liver.

Enter the world of sandwich grec (or as it alternatively known, sandwich turc - some Greeks and Turks might be dismayed to know that these terms usually refer to the same sandwich). Once only a denizen of Paris' outlaying immigrant neighborhoods, the sandwich grec is now on the cusp of culinary assimilation. It seems poised to follow in the path of pizza, frankfurters, and frites, ascending (or, some would argue, descending) to the level of undifferentiated fast food from the ghettoized world of ethnic cuisine.

Already, the sandwich grec/turc is displaying signs of acculturation or mutation associated with this transition from ethnic to domestic. Those familiar with the puffy pita found in Greek and Lebanese sandwiches will find no such pleasure in the sandwich grec. There is only a kind of austere bread product that appears to be the mixed offspring of a pocket pita and a hot-dog bun. Similarly, those expecting a wide array of fillings and spicy sauces found in many falafel sandwiches will be surprised to find their options similarly curtailed. You get lettuce, tomatoes, and a choice of three sauces: piment (chili), mayonnaise, or ketchup (yes, that is ketchup in your pita) or a combination. And then there is the real action: a copious pile of lightly seasoned chopped lamb flowing out of the sandwich, which is usually enough to satisfy even the most bestial appetite.

Of course the quality of sandwich grec varies widely, and since no McGrec or McTurc has arrived yet to monopolize the market, every one of the hundreds of vendors is different. I don't recommend traveling too far out of your way for any particular sandwich grec just yet. But, if you happen to be in the far northern reaches of Paris near Porte de Clignancourt (say spending a weekend afternoon at the famous Marche aux Puces) try one of the many spots on Blvd Ornano between the Simplon and the Clignancourt Metro stations (I would recommend Le Meditarranee, at 80 Blvd Ornano). For less than five euros you can fill your stomach with a sandwich grec and frites, giving your money to a local operator instead of a multi-national, and saving your insides from total annihilation (though I doubt your blood pressure will emerge totally unscathed). Although it took me a while to get accustomed to it (I've been spoiled on some pretty good Middle-Eastern and Greek style pitas in other places) you'll realize that when you consider the other options, the sandwich grec blues are not all that bad to have.

Coffee Coffee Buzz Buzz Buzz

I’m a sucker for a good cup of coffee. And let it be on record that I HATE STARBUCKS. Living in New York City, it’s amazing how much money a seemingly level-headed person (like myself) will spend on a few small sips of the stuff. Be it for the taste, the buzz, the excuse for a break, the refreshing nature of it poured over ice on a sticky summer day, or really - as the perfect accessory to a good conversation, coffee has furtively stolen our hearts and at times broken our budgets. I don’t really know how or when it happened (though, I’m sure Starbucks had something to do with it) but in Manhattan, the going rate for coffee is nearly $2, an iced coffee (which instinctively one would think would be cheaper, seeing as it’s old coffee poured on ice and therefore diluted) somewhere between $2-3; cappuccino’s range between $3-4 (and god help me, I’ve become hooked on espresso); and the rest of the fancy and often seasonal coffee drinks can cost upwards of $4 or 5. It’s madness.

The thing about these pricey coffee houses is the coffee is not always good. Sometimes the iced coffee is so watery it looks like tea. Cappuccinos are often loaded up with [barely] foamed milk, negating the taste of espresso and completely throwing off the intended ratio. Coffee may be overly acidic, or lacking in any body, flavor or kick. Or, of course, there might be nothing in sight except Starbucks, yuck. But along my meandering, over-caffeinated path, I’ve realized a few truths worth sharing with my fellow penny-pinching coffee drinkers.

1) Garden of Eden (The Gourmet Grocery Store) makes damn good coffee. Stop in, check out the salad bar, get some unbruised produce, and drink down a good sized coffee (of any kind: iced, regular, or fancy cappuccino-like) for under $2!! The quality of coffee may vary slightly depending on what Garden of Eden you're in .. but the one up at 107th and Broadway is delicious. They even put foamed milk on top of the regular coffee – that’s pretty remarkable.

2) If you’re going to spend the crazy prices on coffee anyway, make sure you stop in at Café Regular in Park Slope, Brooklyn. It’s a cozy, nook of a place on 11^th Street between 4^th and 5^th Avenue that beams a vibe reminiscent of classic France. Their blend of beans is perfection, and a well kept secret (believe me, I’ve tried to get it). The coffee is strong and smooth and full bodied, and always adds a bit of euphoria to my day. Sometimes they make foam art, too. Pastries are fresh and if you visit later in the day (and make friends with the owner), you may get some croissants for free. We still haven’t figured out if you’re supposed to pronounce “regular” like an American or a Parisian, but the coffee is much more than regular and well worth a visit.